Now that you have had a while to think about using some great colors on your front door we should talk about what type of paint to use to get that great color. Should you use an oil or a latex? Latex tends to be a widely used term for paint that requires soap and water for cleanup. What makes one better than the other? Check out the differences…
Oil Based VS. Latex
Durability:
Latex– excellent adhesion to most substrates; better elasticity than oil.
Oil– Excellent adhesion; better adhesion than latex on heavily chalked surfaces.
Color Retention:
Latex– Superior resistance to chalking and fading, especially when exposed to bright sun.
Oil– Not as good as latex; more likely to chalk and fade in sunny exposure.
Ease of Application:
Latex– Goes on smoothly and evenly, with less brush drag.
Oil– More difficult to apply due to greater “drag,” but goes on heavier for better one coat hiding
Mildew Resistance:
Latex– Less inherent tendency to grow mildew, mildewcide additives discourage growth, help maintain fresh appearance.
Oil– Vegetable oil base can provide nutrients for mildew growth; most products contain mildewcide to minimize growth.
Versatility:
Latex– Can be used on wood, concrete, stucco, brick, galvanized metal, vinyl siding, aluminum siding, etc.
Oil– Can be used on most materials, but for new concrete, stucco and other masonry, a sealer or pretreatment is requires; should not be applied directly to galvanized metal.
Odor:
Latex– Very little odor
Oil– Noticeably more odor than latex.
Cleanup:
Latex– Simple water cleanup.
Oil– Paint thinner or other solvent.
Drying Time:
Latex– One to six hours, permitting quick recoating.
Oil– Eight to 24 hours.
Okay, so latex is probably a better way to go for your front door. Now which latex paint should you use?
Seven’s carries a few different brands of exterior paint. My personal favorite is Graham’s Aquaborne Ceramic Soft Gloss.
It is simple to apply and very durable. I like that it flows and levels without a ton of effort. And it can be made in any color you like. I used it on my own house a few years ago and it looks fantastic. The house faces southeast and takes a regular beating from the sun. I haven’t noticed any fading.
Another great paint to use is the Benjamin Moore Aura Exterior Semi Gloss or Satin. Self priming (in most situations) and considered more of a high build product that covers beautifully, you can be sure that color changes won’t be an issue if you use it. This one can be trickier to apply given the low VOC components. It dries a littler quicker than the Graham’s, but for a front door you will be just fine. If you are a very slow painter you may want to add the Ben Moore extender which will slow the drying process a bit.
Seven’s also carries Benjamin Moore MoorGlo. MoorGlo has been and continues to be a superior choice for exterior trim and doors. It comes premixed in several deep colors including one of my favorites: Black Forest Green.
Black Forest Green
If you are considering a deep color, check out the premixed colors in the Moor Glo. Premixed colors in this product don’t fade as quickly as the tinted ones. Some more favorites are Country Redwood and Heritage Red.
Country Redwood
Heritage Red
So now we know what paints to use and why. All we need to know is how to apply them.
1. Make sure the door is clean. Use Challenger and water to remove the grime. Wipe down after with clear water and let dry. If the door seems really dusty, wash it a second time to remove the chalky residue. Most exterior paints will bond just find to mildly chalky surfaces but if it makes you nervous you can add Emulsabond to the paint to improve adhesion. Remove any hardware you can to make the job easier. Tape off the remaining hardware or have a damp rag handy to wipe off any paint you accidentally get on it.
2. Scrape and sand any peeling paint working back to a sound painted surface. If you expose any bare wood or metal be sure to prime before painting. I like Benjamin Moore Fresh Start 023 because you can use it on projects both indoors and out. If the door is really peeling, especially if it’s wood, consider stripping the old finish off and starting over. You will always have areas to touch up as the coating underneath starts to let go. In this instance, an oil based primer such as Fresh Start 100 would be better as a base before applying the finish coat.
3. Using a good quality nylon polyester brush, apply the paint to the inner panels first. I like to brush the recessed frames of the panels and roll the flats of the panels with a really short nap mini roller like a 3/16 or mohair.
4. Do all of the inner panels and recessed frames. Then paint the horizontal cross members, and finally use long strokes to finish the vertical outer sections. Be sure to prop open the door while it dries.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 after the recommended dry time to apply the second coat. Do not shut the door tight against the weather stripping for 24 hours. Some professionals will even remove the weather stripping so the door can be pulled shut without damaging the new paint job.
6. Sit back and enjoy your new colorful door.
Additional tips…
Don’t paint in direct sunlight. This is especially true on a metal or steel door. The door will heat up so much that the paint dries almost instantly when applying.
Try not to paint when it is really hot and windy. Again the paint will dry too quickly to be able to work it.
If at all possible, remove the door and lay it flat on a couple of saw horses. The paint will have a chance to level out more and will give you a smoother finished look. And you don’t have to worry about someone slamming the door while it dries. (Although if you set the door and sawhorses too close to the kids’ basketball hoop you’re on your own.)
1 quart of paint is easily enough for 2 coats on a door or 2.
